Christmas Time is Here

Mayer Hawthorne, sometimes referred to as a Throwback Soul Artist, or as described by the NYTimes as if the last 20 or 30 or 40 years of pop music hadn’t happened- isn't quite as easily compartmentalized as it might seem. He follows up a collaboration with Snoop Dogg with a smooth cover from the Charlie Brown Christmas Album. He says of his upcoming album you're going to hear more of my affinity for Steely Dan and the Beatles and the Byrds and the Hollies and the Doobie Brothers -- probably some Public Enemy and N.W.A too. Totally dig this guy- the Green Eyed Love Classic Remix is awesome.

Mayer Hawthorne - Christmas Time Is Here by Mayer Hawthorne

Impossible Soul

Sufjan Stevens current manifestation, blending late eighties/early nineties music and aesthetics is fascinating. Check out his new video for Too Much where he rocks a vintage eighties sleeveless Nike t shirt. A review of a recent concert used words like electro-folk hippie-intergalactic dance party to describe his performance of Impossible Soul. On a recent TV spot on Fallon  it looks like Keith Haring did his wardrobe. It seems difficult to put a finger on what he's about- here's another description awe-inspiring, euphonious, spiritually rapturous indie-folk techno-pop dance party. He says, he's sick of being Mr. Strummy Strum.

Black Ivy

Love this shoot on Street Etiquette called The Black Ivy, inspired by the college style of the Black Ivy League. The African bags, beads and scarf accessories are a cool update on trad prep outfits.

Dark Sider

Could not resist this version of the Top Sider by Brooklyn based shoe company Bed| Stu called Uncle Buck - I bought the black color which has such a great beat up look and looks cool with cut off old black/grey jeans. Just need this to complete a goth/noir inclined nautical update. I also quite like this collab between J Crew and Sperry. Sperry was also one of the brands mentioned in this interseting article today in the NYTImes posing the question Will Last Century’s Styles Open Today’s Wallets?

Cape Cod

Every year I design some kind of group of designs around anchors and boats and life by the sea. These nautical themes endure and never seem to go out of fashion. I finally got around to do some for my own store- so check out the Cape Cod section if you are in the mood for lobsters, whales, anchors and ropes - all inspired by my vacations there that I absolutely loved.

New Wave

Vintage Ocean Pacific apparel circa eighties has been a big source of interest for me as inspiration for color palettes as well as graphics for surf tees for a while now but it looks like its starting to really take off this summer not only with some great references to the archives in Op's current line but also in the eighties aesthetics ( lots of mod patterns, angled layouts ) from a variety of board short companies.

Brad vs Frank

There's been a lot of Brads on the catwalks, in the magazines, lots of horn rims and clean cut American Prep Classics. But inevitably, as it always does, the pendulum swings the other way as witnessed by the arrival of Frank at the D Squared Show. Although Frank opened and closed the show, the in between part was a blood spattered nod to all the young dude vampires and more about goth than androgyny. The goth staples served up - a lot of black, some skulls, leather, metallic chain like acessories, a little make up and they threw in some Hockey (they're Canadian).

In the documentary I just added, American Goth, the Goths interviewed struggle a little with the ingredients that define a Goth. Apparently they have eclectic tastes in music and are pretty well read. They overlap Victorian, fantasy, punk and metal. There's your East Village thrift goth and your Rick Owens Paris Couture goth. I'm curious to see if there is an American Goth look that references the vintage bad boy, outsider, rock rebel aesthetics through to the modern day dark lord sportswear of new designers like Odyn Vovk that can actually have a broad commercial reach.

Board Shirt

Besides the Opening Ceremony/ Pendleton collaboration there's also the Hurley/Pendleton collaboration. Love the more modern sixties, youth/surf culture angle but - a wool shirt for this demographic? Not exactly the easy comfy care material they are more used to. Its also avaialable on the Pendleton online store- which I wouldn't think would normally attract a younger or more fashion forward customer. This is interesting. Branding, culture, availability and marketing in the internet age. Can't say what it means without knowing how well its selling for each party - but its interesting to see not just a vintage brand but a vintage product (wool/vintage fit) marketed, and sold across seemingly very different demographics- and all in the same season so its not a trickle up or down.

The New Outdoors

I was in the downtown Bloomingdales the other day and was immediately drawn to a jacket by Junya Watanabe clearly inspired by a classic American Hunting Jacket- complete with shoulder patch and bright orange trim. Although the aesthetics were vintage, the fabrication and construction was current. The tan cloth a light weight technological fabric, lightly quilted- it was light as a feather and had a slim fitted silhouette. The video of his AW09 collection is a dazzling look at his deconstruction of the great American outdoors wardrobe, refined, reimagined. The slices of plaid and camouflage, the mix of tweed, quilting, flashes of color against the autumn hues of olives browns and mustards and the new proportions and styling - all make this a great inspirational resource for dressing up this fall in the new outdoors.

+ Media:Junya Watanabe FW 2009

Fall Work Wear

Couple of styling ideas for my own fall wardrobe from Ralph's Spring Summer 10 runway. Really like the proportion and contrast of the leaner, crisper top with the fuller beat up denim bottom. Also like the tattered scarf of the second image and - is it time for overalls again ? Its been a while and you can buy them cheap I'm sure, somewhere. Patched and repaired also fits right in with staycations and thrifty recycling.

Boot Collaboration

Boots on the left- I want and will probably never have as they are not going to be available in the US. They are by British designer Nigel Cabourn but are a collaboration with Japanese brand Yuketen who I understand manufacture in collaboration with Quoddy. Hence the clear American roots of the design as it's a riff on their moccasin constructed boots. The boot on the right I saw the other day at J. Crew, (who are really looking good these days) and is a collaboration between them and Sperry on a rework of the top sider chukka.

Rogue Bean

“This is for modern, everyday dressing. My goal is not to challenge you. My goal is to make your life better.”

That's a great opening gambit from Alex Carleton, of Rogue's Gallery, recently hired as LL Bean's creative director for their signature Line. I would love something 'classic' from a classic company like LL Bean if only it were in a slightly cooler color or the fit was a little bit leaner (and ironically more vintage). Looking forward to this pairing.

+ Media:LL Bean History

Surfland

This is a gorgeous series of contemporary photographs of East and West coast surfers using a 19th century tintype method by Joni Sternbach. She describes her intent as wanting to contrast the primitive and the civilized self. via Visura Magazine

Woolen Mills

Iconic woolen mills Pendleton and Woolrich both have representation in the serious fashion arena this fall. Woolrich Woollen Mills is the collaboration with Daiki Suzuki and now Pendleton meets Opening Ceremony.

Neon Ride

Another company going into their history and bringing it back. Maui and sons bring back eighties Neon Surf. Awesome. Saw the line at Opening Ceremony downtown.

+ Media:Boat & Tote

Gitman Vintage

Interesting new line from a classic brand that's getting a lot of attention Gitman Vintage. Their current Spring/Summer 2009 collection is recreated from their Spring/Summer 1982 swatch book.

Framed

I stumbled across this eyewear store on the corner of 6th Ave and fourteenth street called Moscot and did a double take at the retro frames they had in the window and swore I would return to check them out. I did, and am in love with all their original styles and have vowed to return when its time to upgrade my old ones. That same week I tried on a pair of Wayfarers Sunglasses and am so ready for a change from the heavy wraparounds that have been around forever. These Raybans are also completely in sync with the eighties influence thats taking hold.